How to save energy – 15 ways to draught-proof your home

Stop draughts to save energy - thick curtains are great for draught proofing leaky windows

Why should I draught proof my home?

Energy use in homes causes more than 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions[1], so saving energy at home is a high-priority climate change action. Check out our ideas below for some low-cost, efficient ways to stop draughts.

Draught-proofing is one of the most cost-effective insulation methods, with a payback time of just a few years and an instant improvement in living quality, so it’s worth doing sooner rather than later.

How can I stop draughts at home?

Badly fitted double glazing, wooden doors, and cracks in walls and floors let the cold draughts in and the heat out. Fortunately, it’s easy to spot where the problem areas are because you feel cold when you go near them!

The solutions to draught problems vary in effectiveness, cost and appearance.

  • Draught excluders are an old-fashioned but effective solution. Draught excluders can be brush strips or tubes of fabric stuffed with insulating material which you fix to the bottom of your door to block the cold draught. They can be used on external doors, or internal doors if the room on the other side is unheated.
    However, Which? magazine found that the most effective way to prevent draughts under a door was simply placing a towel along the gap!
  • Weather sealing strips are foam or brush strips that you cut to size and stick in place around the edge of the frame. They’re cheap, but they aren’t a permanent solution and the glue could mark the frame.
  • Keyhole covers stop draughts by swinging into place to seal the keyhole shut when it isn’t in use.
  • Letter boxes can be draught-proofed with a brush strip, or sealed up completely and replaced with an external box.
  • If you don’t use your chimney, fit a chimney draught excluder or have the chimney professionally capped. Chimney draught excluders are either inflatable bags or natural products like wool (which prevents heat loss while allowing airflow). Remember to remove the draught excluder if you decide to use your fire!
  • Use a flexible filler to block gaps in skirting boards, floors and around pipework. For larger gaps, use expanding foam.
  • Use cement or Polyfilla to seal cracks in walls (but get a professional to check larger cracks in case there are structural problems).
  • Seal up old, unused extractor fan outlets with bricks and mortar.
  • If you can’t upgrade your windows, or your landlord won’t do it, consider using window insulation film to seal the gaps at the edges of your window. You stick the clear plastic sheet to your window, then use a hair dryer to shrink it so it clings tightly to the frame. It’s cheap and should be removable, but the downside is it makes the glass look cloudy and you may end up with creases. (Carefully check the specific product you buy and follow the instructions to ensure it’s fully removable.)
  • A cheap, temporary solution to heat loss through windows is to tape bubble wrap to the glass.
  • Hang thick, well-fitting curtains. Curtains lined with cotton interlining (batting) are most effective, but expensive if made professionally. However, you can take them with you if you move, so they are a good long-term investment.
  • Wooden shutters can be as effective as curtains at keeping the heat in, depending on which aesthetic you prefer
  • Old, badly-fitting wooden doors can be replaced with modern composite doors with a low u-value (the lower the number, the better).
  • Replace blown double glazing with a new, air-tight unit. You don’t have to replace the whole window – you can fit new glazing into the existing frames to keep the cost down.
  • The most expensive but effective solution is to upgrade your windows from single to double or triple glazing.

When fitting draught proofing, remember some ventilation is necessary for all houses (even Passive Houses) otherwise you may have problems with mould and condensation. Do not block intentional ventilation (like trickle vents, air vents and extractor fans).

Draught-proofing is just one of many ways to save energy at home – don’t forget to check out our other ideas!

[1] Hannah Ritchie, Max Roser and Pablo Rosado (2020) – “CO₂ and Greenhouse Gas Emissions”. Published online at OurWorldInData.org. Retrieved from: ‘https://ourworldindata.org/co2-and-greenhouse-gas-emissions‘ [Online Resource]

Image credit:
Cottage window with thick curtains: photo by Rob Wingate on Unsplash

How to save energy – insulate your pipes and hot water tank

copper pipes with foam insulation

Why should I insulate my tank or pipes?

Insulating your hot water tank (cylinder) and pipes is probably the cheapest and easiest way to improve the insulation in your home.

Why should you bother? Well, an uninsulated cylinder or pipe constantly radiates heat, so it’s like having a big, unnecessary radiator in your cupboard, loft or basement. The more heat you lose, the more energy your boiler uses trying to keep the water up to temperature, so it costs you money for no good reason.

How do I insulate my pipes?

Insulating your hot water pipes is a genuinely simple DIY job:

  • Pipe insulation is a foam tube with a slit all the way along it. You can buy pipe insulation in any DIY store, or try this economy pipe insulation from Screwfix.
  • You’ll need a Stanley knife or a strong pair of scissors to cut it to length.
  • Then just pop it around the pipe, like in the picture above.
  • Corners are a bit more difficult, but you just need to cut a chunk out of the foam tube so it bends to match the pipe.
  • Then fix it in place with duct tape.
  • Even if you don’t do the tricky bits like the corners, you’ve still made a difference.

How do I insulate my hot water tank?

Insulating your hot water tank is pretty easy too:

  • A tank jacket is a very thick glass fibre “blanket” with a flame-retardant cover. You can buy tank jackets in any DIY store, or try this cheap, 80mm thick hot water cylinder jacket from Screwfix.
  • It’s easiest if you buy one that comes in several pieces, so there are gaps for all the pipes that come out of your hot water tank.
  • Look for one that’s 80mm thick so it’s really efficient.
  • Wrap the tank jacket around the tank.
  • Secure it with cable ties.
  • Tape up the gaps with duct tape.

Job done!

Image credit: Kate Spencer